Full-Figured Models?

Awhile back I was asked on a meet-up, what my policy was on full-figured models. I’m sure I did the dumb Ben Carson slow-blink a couple of times as if I forgot how to speak or what planet I was on. I felt better about it later because I soon realized that no one is as dumb as Ben Carson except for maybe his parents for spawning that vile imbecile. But it did take me a moment to understand the question as I’d never been asked that before. So what is our policy on full-figured models?

The policy is that we don’t have a policy on full-figured models. I replied to the model, “I wasn’t aware that we needed one.” She went on to explain that the Helios portfolio and specifically the published models tend to lean strongly toward very lean, very fit, very athletic physique-types. Well I can assure everyone that that is not by design. It is more than likely by chance. You see, we just find whoever is qualified for a look or style of photography we’re shooting at that time. I never pay any mind to who the scout is sending me but more on that model’s ability to do the look; her commitment, her enthusiasm, her personality and her talent. We’ve never cared what her dress size is unless we anticipate getting clothing for her or having something made. I seldom even ask height unless it’s necessary for how I’m composing the image later. We generally get everything we need to get from her model portfolio specifications (everyone calling themselves a model should have one) and/or our face to face interview/casting. 

On the other hand, if this is a full-fledged Helios magazine submission event and it’s a all-hands-on-deck affair, we’re gonna want to know everything; every detail. But that’s not in any attempt to type-cast or shut someone out. It’s more of an attempt to insure that what we do get and what we decide to shoot is well suited for the model’s body type. 

What we will not do is to make some special accommodations to overcome how a model feel’s about his or her own body. That’s personal. Those are his or her own insecurities that must be faced. Our changing what I want to do to make you feel better about yourself isn't our responsibility. That’s another personal responsibility. If you’re simply unqualified for what we have planned and those qualifications are never based on your body but more on your ability and your creative malleability then that’s just tough luck. Now if a client commissions us to shoot a model for a size 2 gown then we will go find a size 2 model. But that also applies to any other size model. We have no strong disposition toward anyone. Now if you’re a freckled-faced Ewok and you’re trying to get me to shoot beauty shots for free so you can submit images to Neutrogena to get a modeling gig then we’re gonna have a problem. Someone may find that beautiful but it’s not likely to get you far. Some things can’t be changed. You simply need to go to someone that caters to the Ewokian (is that a word?) sense of beauty. 

Even as I write this my stomach churns as it sounds more like an attempt by me to defend what we shoot and how we shoot. That is not the goal here. The goal is simply to say if you’re qualified, if you’re paying, if you’re available, if you’re talented and/or suitable to what is being sought then we’re game. There is no policy on body-type being for or against anyone (my stomach turns yet again). Yet, what we have noticed is that those so-called “lean, athletic and stereotypically runway body-types gravitate to us.” That’s not exactly our fault and I make no apologies for that. The truth is, never in the entire history of Helios did we ever get many full-figured model shoot requests paid nor unpaid. Could that simply be because they themselves feel inhibited, shy or maybe fearful of judgement? I don’t know. That’s not for me to say. I can’t know how someone feels about themselves. I’d always hoped for a more diverse port when I first started out but I have what I have and we’re very pleased with it. 

At first I was offended by the question from that model. I soon got over it because after looking back through all of my work I can see how someone might think that. Oh, “Helios only wants hot, lean girls.” Uhhh, who doesn’t? That is, if you think lean, athletic girls are hot I guess. Personally, I think anyone that is qualified to meet the criteria of the look is hot - whatever that may be. That’s just us. I do believe this particular model was projecting her experiences from other people onto Helios. I get that. She may have been turned away a few times for less than legit reasons and I can empathize with that.   

This isn’t the only question of it’s type to rear its head over the years. We’ve gotten the emails saying, “you don’t shoot enough African models.” A week later we’ll get, “you don’t shoot enough Caucasian models.” Or, “where are the Asian models?” “Why don’t you shoot more red-heads?” They never stop to think that maybe Asian models never came to a casting or a meet-up. Maybe African models aren’t interested or maybe Caucasian models aren't that plentiful. We don’t know. Maybe because we were shooting swimwear at the time and redheads don’t generally do a lot of swimwear due to skin sensitivity maybe? Ever think of that? Just guessing here. Or maybe there were no French models that wanted to shoot glamour at that time. We can’t chase every theory and we will never try to. This is a matter of you can’t please everyone all the time. 

The next time you think that Helios doesn’t shoot Ghanian models, male models, Iranian models, Spaniard models or French models, full-figured models, older models, short models, blondes, natural hair, Canadian models, etc; go back thru our pics. If you don’t find enough of the models you think should be there, then step up or shut up. It’s that simple. 

The Recipe for the Perfect Photoshoot

It is a common practice of ours to meet models we wish to publish face to face before undertaking any serious project. Generally it's non-negotiable. Given the extreme time, effort and expense, we feel that not only is it an opportunity to get to know the model but it's also a wonderful chance to go over looks and set expectations on how the project will unfold.

The establishment of trust is a key component to working with someone new. It's something that needs to happen as fast as possible and when it's reasonable to do so I'd rather have that out of the way before shoot day. When it's shoot day we need all the extra time we can get for potential wardrobe issues and spending more time with makeup, hair styling and on actual production. I'd rather not spend all that time trying to get to know everyone for the first time.

A confident model is a fantastic model and it can often take a bit of time to warm up to a photographer's shooting pace, style and his or her general way of communicating what they want to see. One of the most beneficial things I've done when meeting face to face is to actually give the model prospect visual and auditory cues as to our process. When I say this I mean this (showing a pic) or when I say "own it" or be more expressive I mean this (pointing at an image from the storyboard). I emphasize that I don't want to copy the looks. I want them to absorb the mood of it, the idea, the feeling and make it their own. It can often start with a storyboard if it's an editorial and at least sample picture(s) I've put together even if it may not be an editorial. 

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Kim Jonet 

You see, I shoot mood, feeling and atmosphere rather than just taking a picture so the vibe of the shot is really what I'm after. Providing the model understands the idea, it gives her a great deal of latitude and how to take it beyond just a picture but into something more profound bearing her unique visual and expressive signature. I'll show the model sample images from wherever I can find them that I think best illustrates my perspective and our objectives for the shoot. I categorize them by look if the shoot entails more than one change. If it's a single editorial then I will give her the background story and show an image or two we think best conveys that feeling. It's up to her to take it the rest of the way. These things can't really be talked about via email and text unless I've worked with her before but even so I prefer to meet if it's more than a common photo shoot. It makes meeting face to face ever more important and I consider meeting first a courtesy shared by each of us. Sure it can be a little inconvenient but it shows how much you respect he process, how engaged you are and how important it is to you to get it right. Often times it eventually leads to that model becoming a cover model maybe not always right then but sometimes in the near future because statistically those that meet first outperform those that do not. Why? The model and the other project participants are more engaged, they're more confident, they're more vested in the outcome. They've also proven they care about the results more than some common passerby and as such they give more of themselves to the process. That's worth more to us than ten passerbys because the results are always extraordinary. 

When she arrives the model is thinking sure I may be a little nervous but I already know this guy. I know what to expect. I am comfortable with everything we've discussed. I may even try some new things I've always wanted to because he's given me a license to be myself and take ownership of the idea. I'm exactly what they need for this editorial. I got the final call to do this when no one else did. I'm not a backup. They've already seen me in person. I've been measured and fitted and the clothes will be perfect. I'm their first choice and I will now show them why I'm even better than they already know I am. 

A confident model. A photographer confident in his or her abilities and a competent team is a flawless recipe for success.