Modeling and Age Discrimination

About three weeks ago I worked with a model I’d never worked with before. She is gorgeous in every way. Polite, intelligent, beautiful skin, gorgeous full and shiny hair and an amazing fit body. As long as a person is of legal age I don’t really care how old they are. If they suit the look I’m going for then I really could care less beyond getting the job done. But I was stunned by what she told me. She mentioned that in her experience many people were turned off by her age. She perfectly recalled an occasion, when a photographer she had just finished shooting with asked her age. When she told him he visibly expressed shock and immediately became dismissive and treated her horribly. I personally just don’t understand the obsessiveness with age. Clearly this model was perfect before the photographer knew her age. I was appalled and very disappointed in this photographer’s behavior. It makes the entire industry seem so very very superficial.  All we really want or really need is a competent and talented subject to meet the criteria of the task. 

I might have known that something was off when she asked the average age of the models I typically work with early in the photo shoot. She was unnaturally interested. When I mentioned all ages she was visibly but pleasantly surprised. I clearly remember saying, “I don’t have an age limit. I only have qualifications. If a person suits those qualifiers then I don’t care. If she is slightly older then all the better since statistics tend to suggests that more mature models are more reliable.” Then she told me her story. I couldn’t get over how someone calling themselves a professional could behave in such a manner. In her estimation, anyone over 30 years of age was at a horrible disadvantage. Clearly she had been shaken and somewhat discouraged by her experiences and given her talent and her looks I was simply baffled why anyone so beautiful might have developed such a distrust and negative attitude about the industry at large.

It didn’t take me long to realize she was not alone. I did a bit of research and spoke to a few colleagues and other models. While there are certainly more mature models working, many have experienced some form of push back when they revealed their age. It wasn’t because they didn’t look the look, walk the proverbial walk or that they didn’t meet all the criteria of the task - NO! It was only because of their age; a simple number that often disqualified them from further consideration.

When did we become so shallow a society to care how old or how young a person is if they perfectly suit the task at hand? In fact, I have argued that on occasion it might be more attractive to seek out a slightly more mature model because of their attention to detail, their work ethic and dedication. Paid or unpaid, collaboration or commissioned, I have never had a model over 30 years of age not show up. From a marketing perspective, any smart person would know that models in their 40s, 50s and 60s is a rapidly growing and sought after group due to the amount of products and services seeking that demographic. More specifically, the amount of quality images needed to promote products to that group is rapidly expanding. It is quite simply, a smart move to work with this rapidly expanding market. If anything, this photographer should be bowing and pleading for the pleasure. But even that is not really the argument here. The lack of common business sense is argument enough for the imbecile that has a problem with age. But what truly perturbs is the fact that this age-nazi expressed no problem whatsoever until he or she actually learned the model’s age. It’s baseless and ignorant to age discriminate for any reason short of not being able to perform the task and that can be true of any person at any age. 

This photographer, whomever they are is simply a fool. It was a tactless thing to do, a blatant lack of professionalism and it shames me to know that someone as kind and as beautiful as this model has to endure such ridicule for being who she is. 

Lucky for me I did photograph her and quite frankly I loved every second of it. She was perfectly qualified, punctual, experienced, respectful, communicable and gorgeous. What else could I possibly want? All things being equal she was perfect and I don’t care how old she is beyond being of legal age. 

Balloon Fetish

How to Look Good in Every Photo.

Over the past few years I’ve heard every kind of excuse as to why some people feel they can’t take a great picture, or why they don’t take pictures. After years of experience, and hearing every kind of excuse I thought I’d share my personal guide to improving the outcome of your pictures. 

I, for one truly believes that everyone has something to bring to the photographic table. I think every person has something beautiful to offer and it is my task to harness that beauty, that sensuality, masculinity, pride, strength, or that confidence into something visually striking. I’m not changing you. I’m making a perfect facsimile. As flaky as it sounds, that light and camera can reach far deeper than what is seen on the outside. 

Now are there people that are physical masterpieces of Godly perfection? I’d be the first to say YES. Let’s be real about it. Beauty might be in the eye of the beholder but there are certain types of beauty that are as certain as gravity. If you don’t believe that, you’re lying to yourself and probably lacking a bit of self esteem. The big surprise is, they’re not all walking in the Victoria’s Secret show. They’re your neighbors, friends, workmates and relatives. I see it every time I leave the house. She’s in the grocery store, she’s your barista or your bank teller. He might be your physics professor or your landscaper. It doesn’t matter the source. There are some gorgeous people on this planet. I don’t know if they are nice people but if it’s eye candy, it’s just plain eye candy.

“Yeah she’s hot.You may not be as tall as that (eye candy) barista, but you should stop comparing yourself to other people. She doesn’t have your smile, your hair, or your eyes. That is something unique to you. Despite what you believe, you have the most insanely gorgeous cheekbones I have ever seen. Your skin is like baby oil on glass; smooth and supple making light literally slide around you as you move; and you move so confidently without trying and project regality and a powerful confidence making you extremely sexy.”

Have I said that to anyone before? Of course I have and it was entirely true. I had a client which complained incessantly about her hips and kept comparing herself to someone else. Was she hippy? I don’t really know. Where she saw hips, I saw dunes and lines. I saw curves of highlight and shadows with a cascading terrain of canyons and hills. I saw a dance and play of light as she strode into a room and smiled; something my camera would absolutely love. 

When we did finally shoot, she saw it too after viewing her images. Thru tear soaked eyes she thanked me for allowing her to see how I saw her, how everyone saw her. The lesson here is that your excuses are just that...EXCUSES. After decades of staring at yourself in the mirror, your idea of what you think you look like is not likely shared by anyone else on Earth. In fact, I’d say your own opinion of your physical self is probably shared by less than half the people you know whether that be good or bad. But my experience suggest that most people probably think better of you physically than you realize so stop beating yourself up. For everyone not in the Godly perfection crowd, well... that’s just sad.

Leave the Excuses

I’m too hippy, I have a pot belly, what about my muffin top, I want to grow my hair out, I’m too old, I’m short, I’m a lumbering giant, I’ve put on weight, I have no coordination, blah blah blah. No one is asking you to walk a tightrope. So you think you’re heavy? Guess what? So do runway models, and singers, and actresses. Most of them think they are heavy too. Yet, they are on billboards, magazine covers and all over the Internet. Why? Because they get paid? Would being paid to take a photo make you feel any better about yourself? I think not. 

When someone tells me that they are too heavy or have put on weight I take it as saying “I don’t trust you to take a good photo of me right now because I’ve put on more weight than I’m comfortable with; thus, giving me a less than ideal view about myself. You’re great but not that great. No amount of light will rid me of my self loathing. No amount of makeup will make me feel beautiful right now. Next year when I’m at my goal weight you can take shot after shot of gorgeous images of me because I’ll be thinner. Your talent is solely dependent on my thinness. You’re only as good as how thin and fit I feel. I’m just not happy with myself because I’m fat and ugly and have no confidence.”  

When you word it like that it sounds horrible doesn’t it? But isn’t that what you just told me? Is that not what you said? It may have been paraphrased but that is exactly the meaning when someone says, “I’ve put on too much weight.” You told me that my talent and ability to take a mind blowing gorgeous photo of you is associated directly with how you feel about yourself. Until you feel great about your body I am damned to a career of utter mediocrity and talentless wandering. 

Attitude 

Given time, a little patience and leaving your self loathing at the door you are already 50% there. Confidence, is one of the key components. Shake off that self defeating air you’re projecting and come in fired up and ready to have fun. Whether they are CEO head-shots, maternity shots or senior pictures matters not; shedding the apprehension and remembering that it is not the end of the world will improve your visual disposition. 

You ever wonder how someone that is stereotypically average looking in person looks like a supermodel in pictures? Yet, someone breathtaking in person looks like a train wreck in pictures. More than likely it’s confidence. They may have had one or two bad photo experiences and every photo shoot after that they met went a sense of foreboding and depression. Guess what? It translates. Your sense of dread doesn’t do anything for the image. Furthermore, you project it around you. Everyone feels it. The one you do not need to project onto is your photographer. Most photographers are business people. Sure they want to insure they capture the best shots of you, but they’re creative and fluidic which means they want to have fun and keep an uplifting atmosphere. It keeps their creative synapses firing and allow them to see potential in you that you may not have seen before. 

I’ve had all types; even the 5’10” proverbial bombshell with the angel face. But when the lights started to flash it all faded away. I struggled to bring her to life. There was no spark, no life behind the eyes. There was only a pretty face and just having a pretty face and/or a great body does not necessarily equate to a great picture. Just keep it positive and drop the expectations that you only have for yourself. No one is judging you and there is no one to impress.

Dress the Part

I think you’re mind blowing-ly hot; but that doesn’t give you a license to try and fit into a size 8 if you’re a 12. Dress appropriately and be realistic. Sometimes, your biggest fan sees you thru rose tinted lenses. Therefore, it would be prudent to get another opinion and check up on different styles and buy clothing and accessories consistent with your intent. My most used self made phrase is “just because they made a mini skirt in your size, doesn’t mean it’s for you.” Get a little help. Your photographer or a stylists would be extremely helpful in this case. Unless your best friend has won styling awards, they may not always be the best source of style trends and appropriateness. Best friends often dress similarly as you and you two seek conformity with one another. You and your friend may be wearing clown suits and think it’s still the s**t. But it probably went out of style with "hammer pants."

To Pose or Not to Pose  

Posing is a skill. If you’re not sure about it don’t try it. There are some basic stances your photographer will take you thru to insure great results for your shoot. Please don’t try top model stunts unless they’re part of your skill set. Basic considerations are poses that shift weight to one leg or another, or to one foot or another. It aids in the illusion of slimness and a shapely figure. 

However, the best shots I’ve ever taken are candid shots; shots where the subject appears to be in their own space or some other natural state. No posing required. A genuine laugh, a smile, or glance or tilt without them even knowing what they are doing is perfect. One of the best shots of my photographic career was a client brushing out her hair. Another was a client adjusting her earring. They are spontaneous and natural and they don’t look staged. If the theme permits, candid is the way to go to not look dorky. If works for almost every genre, especially wedding, portraits, boudoir, and glamour. 

My largest advice to women is Triangles and Curves. Most positions that put the body’s limbs in triangles and the core of the body as an s-curve relative to the limbs is gonna be awesome. Create space between the arms and body (refer to triangle). Bringing your arms in close to your body adds a visual sense of bulk thus adding the illusion of weight. Turn and twist, shift the weight away from the camera and bend the arms creating space between you and camera, as well as between the arms and body. Not to worry, it’s not something to remember. A good photographer will subtly remind you. 

Just Give Me the Light

Remember where the light is. We want the light to strike the key area of interest. Most often that area will be your eyes. Always remain mindful of your eyes and body relative to the light source. While we may not say look into the light directly, we might remind you to look toward the light or past the light. 

Your Good Side  

Some studies suggest that the left side of the face is statistically the visually favored side as it pertains to attractiveness. I don’t know about that. I have captured photos of beautiful people from all sides with varying results; sometimes it’s the left and sometimes it’s the right depending on several factors not all of them being pre-disposed to one side or another. 

In conclusion, stop insulting yourself and get out there and just take pictures already. It's a photo not a prostate exam or a pregnancy scare. 

The TF (trade for) Photo Shoot Culture

There are several factors that have attributed to the abundance of trade for* (TF) photo shoots. One is technology; there are more advanced digital cameras in the market than there are people who truly know how to use them. In essence, everyone with a camera thinks they are a photographer. The other factor is the economy. As prices for cameras get cheaper so have we seen an increase in the amount of “Internet models.” Furthermore, with so many people still out of work, the derived conclusion seems to be, “hey, I can model. I don’t need any training, money, or transportation. Just show up and be pretty because everyone thinks I’m cute.” Everyone that wants to be a model has an online profile essentially demanding to be paid for their services. The same holds true for many alleged photographers. They’ve been taking pictures for months and sometimes years for free and now they want to be paid. In the end, what are we left with? We’re left with a culture of under qualified individuals on both sides and no one is getting paid. Consequently, the TF culture is born. 

If you're not aspiring to be a model then this need not apply to you. The TF phenomenal was one born out of desperation. The TF* acronym in short stands for “trade for time, trade for print, or trade for CD” or some other consideration. You will often see TFT, TFP or TFCD respectively. I’ve been offered some crazy things over the last couple of years from people who could not pay or refuse to pay for great photographic services. I guess they didn't see the value in it. Yet, it didn't stop them from offering TVs, rugs, pieces of art, or whatever they had. Why would they assume I want that stuff? I can't offer the electric company a TV or a rug as payment on my monthly bill. 

What is a TF? Succinctly put, if you're seeking a TF* photo shoot, you are bartering a product or service to a photographer without the exchange of money. The original goal of the TF* was that the new photographer and the new model would build their respective portfolios with marketable images without the need of money changing hands. But this may not be the only arrangement. Sometimes they simply come together for the purpose of an original work they each can use to promote their business and services. This is a "creative collaboration" for the purposes of business and not necessarily the exact same thing as a TF* though they have similar goals. It expands to include makeup artists, set designers, salons and spas, fashion designers, muralist, hair stylists, etc. Anyone who can play apart in the creative process can win if everyone chips in equitably. Everyone in the chain gets credit and the promotional benefits can be enormous. 

On the surface, it seems like a fantastic bargain. However, what can happen is a large amount of mediocre work can be  turned out because neither party is really aiding the objectives of the other. If they are all equally matched, can there be any  benefit? If the photographer is more advanced than the model is he or she giving them the quality he or she needs for a portfolio? If the model is far more talented than what that photographer can capture then what does the model gain? In retrospect, one should seek to work with someone more advanced than themselves to improve their skills, marketability and networking. Carefully executed everyone can gain some benefit from working together.  

Bartering is the oldest form of getting what you need. You give something to get something without using money. But everything has value. The challenge is establishing an agreeable value between what someone has to offer and what you have to give. But in the digital age there is another variable that has crept into the equation, and that is a misconception as one’s own perceived value. Websites were once only available to people who could afford a programmer to build them. Now everyone can download a free template. Ironically, they look free too. They're cheap, basic and you're bound to see the same layout somewhere else. Furthermore, building an online identity took thousands of dollars years ago; now Facebook and MySpace along with others can help you throw together an online "often too personal" profile in minutes. As a result, there is a deterioration of perceptive value and the misuse of digital assets which effects the value of products and services. If they are cheaper and more accessible, the perception is that they are of lesser value. Yet, this misconception goes the other direction as well. You believe that the very existence of your online profile or identity puts you ahead somehow; that you are on a level playing field with more established, more talented and seasoned online talent. It doesn't. You still have to deliver content that people want to see, are excited to see and more so, are willing to pay for. 

With the onslaught of camera bodies in everyone’s hands and the increasing popularity of modeling sites that have distorted what being a model really entails, you get an old fashion stand off. Photographers are trying to get paid for what they do and new models are wanting to get paid for what they do. Unfortunately, neither one understands their market and what exactly they are trying to achieve. Furthermore, they both have distorted perceptions of their own value. New models with no experience are dictating what they will and will not do contrary to industry norms while new photographers are giving away the store without so much as a clue on how to use their camera much less the cost of doing business. Most of these people are hobbyists and don’t know it yet. I can tell you from personal experience that the photography business is not a cheap one. But unlike many photographers, I have done this long enough to know my worth and what things cost me. When I consider insurance, licenses, image hosting fees, image processing, image optimization, advertising, promotions, rentals, permitting, website maintenance, travel and personal insurance; I know that before I even pick up my camera a very basic two hour shoot will cost me several hundred dollars or more whether I am paid or not. I base that on how many jobs I expect to get in a year, not to mention my equipment cost and wear, time to edit and process, utilities and the aforementioned factors. So you will forgive me if I am very very discriminating about who I am willing to barter with and why I often choose not to barter at all before considering what an individual is bringing to the table. 

Talent and creativity is a difficult thing to grade and price for some people. Unlike some creative professions, working photographers have real fixed cost that must be taken into consideration. If they say otherwise, they aren't photographers. They're hobbyists or wannabes. So when a startup model list on his or her profile -  I will not do this, I will not do that, I need all expenses paid, I need a makeup artist on set, I’m allergic to peanuts, I require an escort, etc. etc. I’m immediately thinking Wow, her portfolio must be absolutely incredible to make all these demands. Guess what happens? You guessed right, it is more often than not a major let down. Why? Their images tell the story. They are often mediocre at best. Every single portfolio whether it be old or new of a person requesting a TF photo shoot that makes demands such as those mentioned has a poor portfolio. It has never failed. Read the profile and description first before you even look at the portfolio. True models know that you don’t bring your boyfriend or kids to an interview or job (on set) paid or not. Real models know that you don’t get signed to an agency by telling them everything you will not do first. True aspiring models know that even after being signed that they are responsible for their expenses and that includes on occasion even paying for certain photo shoots. Yeah, that’s right. If you’re still new to an agency you will pay for your own expenses and that sometimes include tests and often times even travel expenses. When you become a demand, only then will someone else foot the bills for you. But don’t take my word for it. Call an agency and find out for yourself what you’re responsible for. Stop being an “Internet Model” and get yourself informed. We tend to read only what we want to believe. Call and talk to a real person. 

Getting signed does not exclude you from having to pay for certain photo shoots. It is deducted directly from your account. Just look at your agency statement if you don’t believe me. Sure there will be some “test shoots” that will not cost you. But even test photographers that have being doing this for awhile start charging the agencies. Guess who gets that bill? Often times it is you, the model. So don’t tell me when you’re new and still look the same in every single head shot what you will and will not do and that you refuse to pay anything because someone told you that you were cute and tall. It’s actually kinda of silly when you think about it. Don't forget what TFs are about. They are about trading services of equitable value. Making silly demands upfront without so much as a clue about the specifics of what is required will only diminish your worth and mark you as arrogant. Photographers are a tight community. We talk and share information.

TFs are a wonderful thing in moderation. But at some point whether you are a model, a photographer, a business owner or executive who needs professional profile head shots, a wife or girlfriend, a boyfriend or husband that wants to spruce up your relationship with photos, know that free isn’t necessarily what it’s cracked up to be. You get what you pay for. Furthermore, you get what you barter for. 

There are a single handful of people that I would never charge for a photo shoot. They know who they are. Over time, we have ascertained each other’s worth and determined our mutual benefit. They know what I bring them and I know what they bring me and we are gleeful over that arrangement. Even so, I take a moment to revisit their creative and professional value to me from time to time, and make a determination whether or not throwing away hundreds of dollars with no profit whatsoever is good enough even for them. It's never personal. It's business. I’m sure they do the same when they determine if taking a couple hours out of their day is worth it. I hope they do the same. Every professional relationship doesn’t sustain itself forever. Like personal ones, it takes constant evaluation and compromise. 

This is business. If it were easy everyone would be successful at it. But everyone is not. Even seasoned professionals that know everything and started before the digital age, struggle to keep the wrinkles smooth. But I, just like them, love to work with people that are creative and open. I like working with models and retail clients that inspire me and push me to be a better photographer, marketer and graphic designer. While I am far from an expert, my increasing understanding is making me a better creative professional. My work has improved, my clients are happier and everyone gets what they want and need in the end.

This TF* culture that has emerged leaves something to be desired. I can only hope that the delusions of grandeur and grandstanding will subside when the digital excitement abates.