Thursday, May 25, 2017

Who is To Blame When Your Photos Turn Out Bad?

We have been fortunate not to have these things occur. Yet, we hear about them all the same. We’ve had a misunderstanding or two over the years. Who hasn’t? Usually it’s about start times and styling choices. Even after all these years there are some things we still simply refuse to photograph. There can be a great deal of finger pointing when things go bad on or after a photo shoot. When the pictures aren’t of the quality and caliber of what everyone expected then who is to blame for that?

Is it the subject, the client, the photographer, the creative director, the makeup artist or hair stylist, the agency, the wardrobe stylist, the retoucher or the booking agent’s fault that these images are so horrible? There are several people blame can and will be assigned to. 

The photographer wants to blame the agency for sending him such an inexperienced model. He says she doesn’t understand his instructions or that he has to almost babysit the model and take him or her thru every single pose like a baby having to be guided through taking it’s first steps. Or the model came unprepared, she didn’t bring the right clothing discussed, she didn’t wax, she was unable or unwilling to do the required looks. I’ve also heard photographers say the model simply can’t model. She can’t pose or move. Everything was jerky or incomprehensible and out of context with the theme. It happens but is that all the model’s fault? Read on.

The stylist or booking agent might say that the modeling agency sent the wrong model. Or the agency will say the model is exactly what the creative director asked for. But someone will complain that she's too tall. She’s not expressive or that she doesn’t have the dress size or hair color we requested. Is it the stylist’s fault or the agency? Read on.

The model blames the photographer. He was too pushy. He was weird. He spoke too fast. I couldn’t understand him. He was not communicable. He was too quiet. I didn’t want to do lingerie. I thought we were doing lingerie but he wanted swimwear. I told the agency I only shoot nude. I don’t shoot nude; why was I asked. I was cold the entire time. I was too hot. The location was far away. He wasn’t good with lighting. He focused too much on lighting. The list goes on. Could she be right? Read on.

I think you see where I’m heading with this post. Everyone has a complaint about someone at some point in time. The simple answer is that it’s your fault your pictures are terrible. What do I mean by “your” fault? I mean anyone reading this. In short, it’s everyone’s fault. It is no single person because pictures can’t make themselves. If there are humans involved in their creation and a human is on both sides of the camera then it took both and all involved to create that image.

Most of the problems associated with photo shoots is a lack of preparedness and a failure to manage expectations. This all starts with communication which is why I cannot emphasize enough of knowing and preferably having an open dialogue with everyone involved with your project. Blind photo shoots are like blind-dates in that you don’t know who you’re getting. Why set yourself up for failure? Study a port. Look for inconsistencies in shooting styles. Models, check the photographer’s work ahead of time and look into the ports of the models he or she has worked with in the past. Message one or two and ask how he shoots, if he’s communicable, if he’s difficult and then decide for yourself if it’s worth your time. Ask how long it takes to get pics, do you get to choose them, how will they be used, how much are his or her photography rates? Ask if you’re expected to bring your own clothing or will you have help. 

Models… go further and ask the photographer if you can bring an escort ahead of time if you need one. In fact, for many photographers its a deal breaker. Not because they’re up to no good but largely because they can manage one stranger in their home or business but not two. Additionally, that’s one more distraction he or she doesn’t need. Don’t surprise us. We hate unexpected tagalongs. A photographer shooting from his home or basement isn’t unusual. In fact, it is common. If that freaks you out then choose another photographer. But you better believe some of his best work was created in that same garage or basement. Do you believe every single image the photographer created was in a $20,000 per month ocean-facing loft studio? A great photographer can create an incredible image almost anywhere if they have enough space, enough light and a willing model. But if someone is too high brow for a basement then go and pay someone with a huge posh studio willing to shoot a start up model with zero experience. You never know. Maybe you’ll get lucky that way. Besides, that option is readily available to you here as well. But that is what portfolios are for. If you saw a scene you like in his portfolio then ask about it ahead of time. Be clear that’s the kind of look you’re interested in and communicate that is what you’re expecting within your level of resources. If that isn’t possible with your resources then be sure the photographer communicates that to you. Don’t assume they can and will do that just because you brought it up. If you wanted a twentieth floor ocean front balcony view as your background image and you’re not paying the photographer, you haven’t spoken to them or referenced them with another model or artist that may have worked with them, then you have reason to be suspicious; but that’s on you. You have reason to be concerned if you’ve been told escorts aren’t allowed and you’re being led into a dark basement in the middle of Idaho looking for the ocean. Some things are just common sense. 

Ask for examples of ideas ahead of time that the photographer or director expects you to do. If you’re working through your agency then ask them to be specific. If they can’t be specific then adapt but don't complain. Beforehand and if applicable, ask if you need to sign a model release and what is in it. If you don’t then why or why not? Ask your contact about image use and how many images within reason you can expect. How long will it take until you get images? How will they be delivered? As professionally as possible ask the photographer if nudity is expected or if implied is okay? Provide a visual example of your level of nudity that you find appropriate or inappropriate. Ask the photographer if there is a changing room or if there are bathroom facilities there. Exercise due diligence and work with creatives that consistently gives the kind of quality and performance you want from the beginning. Even if it means working less or collaborating less - choose high quality projects and be deliberately discriminating on your choices. It only takes one bad image to ruin a reputation and scores of extremely good ones to recover your reputation if it can be recovered at all. 

Agencies… what can I say about an agency? They’re very good until they’re not which is to say most often they’re not. Call the agency, email them a call-sheet with the ideas along with the model you’re requesting. Ask the agency if they can send the model’s current pics (this should be automatic and already current but don’t assume) to be certain her look hasn’t changed. Be sure to cover the aspects of how the images will be used and share your expectations to them as to what you expect them to do and the model that you are expecting to arrive. Confirm arrival times and duration of the project. Do this all and do it twice more. Agencies can be notoriously selectively forgetful and inconsistent. Furthermore, agency turnover is atrocious so who you spoke to this week may be a different person the following week. Therefore, manage your expectations by keeping a trail of documentation of your correspondence. 

Make up artists and stylists… share, share and share again. Make sure you know exactly what the creative director or photographer expects of you. Be sure you are familiar with the look and have your kits and your clothing accessories on par with what was shared, planned and discussed. DO NOT assume autonomy over how the makeup and hair will look. Chances are the people you’re shooting with will want full creative control over the end result and how it got there. Ask ahead of time which looks will be first and the order of shooting those looks so you're prepared. Suggest but don't demand a sequence more efficient for your application. Why not demand? Well demanding is rude for one and there are things beyond your station in-play. In cases like mine, I've had to take into consideration tide forecast times levels if we're shooting on the beach. If it's the tide is too high when the model is there we're doing indoor looks first if it's on the menu. As it the tide subsides, there are areas we can now get to  they were not available when the tide was at the maximum level. Photographers have to consider sun position. Backlit images are best for certain parts of the day. That means shooting a certain look may need to be earlier or later. No one should assume they know everything that's going on. You have to ask, email, call and/or message each other. You’ve probably been given a mood board of a plethora of styling ideas supporting the theme you’re expected to execute. If you're not sure who you’re reporting to then ask. There is no shame in getting it right and asking questions if you don’t know. Too much pride is often times are greatest enemy. Ask your primary project contact about what you’re expected to do and what, when and where you’re doing it. Ask for a mood board and ask specifically how much latitude you have on the look and who will manage your applications. 

As you can see, most problems can be addressed before a shoot ever begins. When that image didn’t turn out like you expected it to then it’s probably something you didn’t do or neither of you talked about. When model’s tell me that they worked with a terrible photographer and the images weren’t that great I have to wonder. Did the model even look at his portfolio? I mean really really look as in study it? Did the model reference other ports of models that this photographer worked with? Were they prepared for the shoot or did they just bring what they had or what they wanted to shoot without discussing it with the photographer? Quite frankly I wouldn’t work with a photographer I didn’t know well if he or she didn’t ask me what I was bringing. Wouldn't that photographer want to be reasonably prepared for what the model was bringing even if it’s something casual and carefree. I would want to know which background I need to put up or even if I should gas up the car for a location shoot on a collaboration. 

When the photographer says a model was stiff and inflexible and just overall inexperienced and haughty, I think… did he meet her first? Has he spoken to her at all aside from her “Hello, I love your work; let’s shoot this weekend,” messages many upstarts let themselves get entrapped by because they're so eager to get pictures of a beautiful new model they haven’t worked with before.

Let me level with you on a little secret. Photographers are prideful and models are even more prideful. They really don’t like contacting one another for advice on a model or photographer. They want everyone to see, believe or think they did this all on their on. Yet, the regional photographer and model community is a small one and people talk - if not now then soon. Eventually every nuanced thing, bad habit, good habit, preparedness, lack of professionalism, flirt, whisper or word of encouragement gets passed around. So why not, just manage those expectations, talk to each other and share your experiences to improve your projects. I’ve been more than disheartened about how many photographers fail to contact us about models. Yes, it has been several over the years but you’d think it would be dozens of times a week at least. Then they complain and whine about what they didn’t shoot or couldn’t shoot. Or they whine about a lack of image quality or that the model was this or that or didn’t model lingerie when they talked about lingerie. Well I might have told you she would do that. Well that’s the photographers’s fault. We’re the one’s pulling the proverbial trigger. Even though it’s everyone’s responsibility, the pressure is on us to perform despite the circumstances that led to the bad images or lack of images. 

Retouchers retouch. Stylists style. Models model. Photographers manage, direct, orchestrate, adjust, manage people, often times style, produce, help to design sets, and create the circumstance by which the entire project will be executed. It stands to reason that we would take every single measure to insure the results are nothing short of stellar. Sometimes despite our best efforts, something or someone falls short. But it’s not our time to point fingers. It’s everyone’s fault but ultimately we have to get up, dust ourselves off and see what we can do to keep such things from occurring again. I have found that in the end, it still comes down to communication, preparedness and managing expectations of every single project.  

In conclusion, whose fault is it when an image fails? It’s everyone’s fault. I can’t take a picture of another person all alone without the other person. 

Monday, May 15, 2017

All Time Favorite Model Finally Revealed

I said I would never do this. I said it was disrespectful. I carried on about how it’s a slap in the face to everyone I know and everyone I’ve worked with. But after days, months and years of thinking about it. I decided to unveil who my favorite model is/was. 

First of all why the change of heart? Well people deserve to know because I think she is a source of great inspiration and a magnificent example of poise, grace, beauty and endless professionalism. Additionally, I spoke with one of the most well-known photographers in the world and he chatted publicly about his fondness for one particular model and even raved how she is his absolute favorite. I thought “Wow!” He just shocked me and went against everything I’d ever said and I admire this guy’s work like crazy. 

I realized, that much of my apprehension in admitting such a thing was because people have a way of disappointing you when you throw all your weight behind them. The second you build them up is the moment they tear you down and crush your every expectation. But I don’t own her. She has no obligation to live up to any idealized view I have about her beauty and her infinite talent. She is her own person and I have to accept that and take the gift she bestowed upon me; that is the gift to collaborate with her and create some of the best images I’ve ever done. Perhaps it was her personality, her confidence or her willingness to simply put her trust in me to basically try everything I threw at her. That’s a special and unique thing; not to question, not to get overly disturbed about the unknown but to have an open mind and a willing disposition. 

Not to put too fine a point on it but I went back and re-read her interview from SIRCUS™ magazine Issue 10 at www.sircusmagazine.com. Her interview reaffirmed my conclusion that she is the best model I’ve ever photographed. That interview reminded me of why I was drawn to her in the first place. If that wasn’t enough praise, I can easily say that only my wife has impressed me more as a model and that is no small feat. I read and then re-read something in that interview that shook me. In paraphrasing she said, “I decided to be beautiful.” You have to read that interview to get the full context. It’s one thing to say such a thing. But it’s quite another to live it. It was clear it wasn’t just idle talk but a philosophy of life. That sat with me. That sentiment grew n me and changed me as an artist. She raised the bar to a height few will ever achieve. That is not to say some will not. I’m scaling back but I have a few more shoots left in me yet. I just believe that Lauren Moon is the best model (to date) I’ve ever had the pleasure of working with. With the combination of beauty, talent, personality, confidence, adaptability and talent, she is/was my absolute favorite model. 

It’s not all about beauty, talent or just ability. It’s all of those things and yet none of them. She’s a special blend of perfect attributes that simply makes everything or everyone else seem a little dimmer in comparison. There were unexpected last minute personnel changes on our shoot with her and yet Lauren never wavered. Without showing the slightest bit of hesitation or doubt she forged on. Creatively malleable without end, she didn’t frown with challenges, she accommodated change and even welcomed the unknown. She did it all with a regal disposition and fearlessness I’ve rarely seen in a single person. 

I thought of all the best traits of every model I know beyond my present company and thought what a model might be when it’s all put together. In less than a second, I thought of Lauren Moon. Thank you for a great experience Lauren. May you continue to enlighten us all with your grace, your gift and your beauty.


Also a special thank you to model Chanel Alexis and The One that is everything, Trexie Dorrell. 

Monday, May 8, 2017

"I Don't Want To Look Chubby"

I’ve amassed a litany of platitudes from people over the years; platitudes designed to help them cope with their never ending self-loathing and other perceived inadequacies. While many are simply par for the proverbial course, others grate on my last nerve like the dragging of fingernails down the chalkboards of the past. The complaints began even before the shoot day arrives.

“What about the weather? I’m so worried about the weather. What will we do if it rains, blah, blah, blah?” Guess what? Weather happens. There isn’t anything I can do to control the weather. Rain chants and dances, sun worship and the deity of light don’t do my personal bidding. If you’re a smart cookie then you have some contingencies for that eventuality. First and foremost, we live in the Pacific NW. Rain is inevitable. Whether it be right now or later, it’s just something you have to get over. If you’re waiting on the perfect weather for every single photo shoot you intend to have, then you will not get much done. Our advice is to stop deflecting your inadequacies or your lack of confidence to things beyond your control. You probably just don’t want to be outside or get your hair a little damp. But if you’re a real model then you’ve done your homework. Have you ever seen running makeup, or flattened hair in this photographers port because it rained? Likely not. Are you worried about looking bad? Have you seen a picture from said photographer where the model looked “bad?” If not, get on with the shoot. If it rains, it rains.

If there are indoor portions of the photo shoot planned then focus on those. At worst, you get to spend more time on perfecting poses, enhancing and trying out different angles and quite often getting more out of the shoot than you originally planned. If there is an impending deluge in the forecast then one can simply shoot all indoors and save the outdoor segment for a later date if possible. But don’t complain to me about weather for a shoot that is weeks away. Not even a meteorologist can forecast that far out so why are you nagging to me about it? Some people I just don’t get.

Don’t get it twisted. I’ve had shoots rained out before when and only when the entirety of the shoot was outdoors and it was nothing short of a downpour. A sprinkle here and a sprinkle there never stopped a dedicated model or a committed photographer from getting it done. Situations vary, but if it must be done, there is a good chance that it can be with some adjustments. I’ve had models shoot in the rain and the pics were epic. Of course, one was swimwear so that worked to our advantage. The other was fashion and the rain wasn't heavy. It was a very recent shoot no more than two weeks ago and the dreary gray skies actually enhanced the general atmospherics I could never have gotten without the dismal looking sky. A bleak sky meant drama and contrast I would never have dreamed of. The images turned out gorgeous. But the model was absolutely incredible. She knew rain was likely but forged on. She refused to cancel. That’s dedication. In short, that’s a true professional model that understands what it takes.

The second biggest gripe is the “chubby” factor. “I don't want to look chubby” she says. Chubby?!!! Chubby”!!!! If you don’t want to be chubby then go to a gym. Wear a girdle. Go on a diet. Does anyone look any more “chubby” (as this prospect says) than they are in pictures I have personally ever taken? Or more to the point, do you consider yourself “Chubby?” Ahhhh! Now we get to the meat of the problem. You feel that YOU are chubby and are worrying and stressing about how you will look on your shoot that has been over a year in the making. But you’re an experienced model and you’re stressing about looking chubby and then telling the photographer and stylist about it? That’s just wrong. What were you doing during that time all those months ago before meeting this person? Apparently it wasn't worrying about being “chubby.” Are you not prepared for a photo shoot you have been pleading for and begging for all that time?

Now before any of you get your panties in a bunch, I am not bullying nor body shaming. This person used the phrase “chubby” herself. I personally found her to be gorgeous. I never even noticed anything beyond what I can shoot with her. I don’t box people into anything based on some made-up societal stereotype. But I’m gonna do a meet-up regardless. In large part, a meet-up is to set expectations, discuss copyright, image use, take measurements (if applicable), go over looks and ideas and address concerns. But any concern of me making her look “chubby” never came up during that face to face. It came up in a text from her weeks later. It wasn’t brought up by me because I saw something in this alleged model that promised extraordinary. Something in her that screamed premium but had yet to be let loose and tapped into. I had some reservations but looks wasn’t one of them. My reservations were about personality and the very thing that has occurred. The complainer. The excuse maker. The person looking to find fault with a picture before a picture has even been taken; a self assigned fault that she herself has absolute and total control over.

You’ve seen me type “alleged” because a real model wouldn’t complain so much. A real model might be body conscious about her weight or height but she brings her confidence and her daring. Or he brings his talent and his looks. He or she knows how to pose and angle themselves in such a manner so as to de-emphasize those things they want de-emphasized. Furthermore, he or she would seek out collaborations willing to accommodate their self-proscribed flaws about themselves. Well, I’m not that guy. I shoot people that are ready and able to do what needs to be done. I work with people that are confident, bold and daring as they are beautiful. But what I won’t do is appeal to a person’s sense of self-loathing as an excuse for looks and posing they can’t do or don’t want to do. Modeling isn’t a field for the docile, the tame and the fearful. It’s brutal. It’s cut throat and it’s beautiful. A model is only as good as the next model who is more bold, more daring, more beautiful and more fearless. It’s that simple. I don’t care for complainers. I don’t get to complain when my lighting doesn’t work. I have to look for ways to solve it. I can’t say oh it’s raining so no need on shooting indoors either. That’s a waste. I don’t have excuses so I don’t allow them from anyone else.

If you don’t want high fashion looks then don’t pursue collaborations that do high fashion without doing what needs to be done for such looks. If you don’t want Guess style looks then you probably shouldn’t work with a photographer that loves those looks and want to such looks with you if you think you’re “Chubby” and then stress, moan, nag and complain that you don’t want to look chubby. Get over yourself. You’re not a model. You’re a fake. I need to move on to people who KNOW they’re models. 

One of the things I stress in this particular meet-up is that fact that the model had to trust the process. She has to trust the styling that has been selected. But no one has to do anything they don’t want to do so as long as it’s made clear at that meet-up or shortly thereafter. You get to change your mind. You get to say, I was caught up in the moment but on further thought, I don’t feel comfortable doing that look because I feel chubby. You get to cancel and never call me up again. That’s everyone’s right. Unless we have a contract signed prior to a shoot, you get to back out and I’m hoping beyond hope that she says she can’t do it. I can’t cancel. It’s just not my thing. Once committed I stay committed even if I don’t like a situation because that’s what professionals do. But I hope this model cancels if she doesn’t feel comfortable. I hope she messages and says I appreciate your time but I need to feel more confident in myself before I’m ready to shoot with you. Maybe she thinks she needs to lose weight. I don’t know and I can’t speak for her. I wish she would say she wants to take more time to be sure she’s ready. 

Don’t ever say you’re ready when you're not. Don’t pretend to be a attuned to what we are looking for when you’re not. Some people aren’t ready for Helios and there is no shame in that. Cancel your shoot before these weeks we have left turn into days or days into hours when my niceties turn into vehement disgust. Cancel your shoot and come back when you’re absolutely ready - when you can at least fake being bold. Any less than ABSOLUTE confidence shakes my own confidence in a person. I don’t want to spend hours post processing, or dollars in gas going from one location to another hauling equipment because you’re gonna think you’re chubby later no matter how much effort I take in this prospective collaboration.

But if you must continue, speak nothing ill of yourself in my presence. I need you to know you’re beautiful. Don’t just think it. I need to see yourself as I do. I see possibilities. I see stunning and breathtaking. I see windswept hair when I see you. I see backlit sunlight glistening against raven colored hair. I see endless creative depth. I see you in slow motion wearing red against a ocean colored sky. I see you lying in a pond suspended on lilies. I see your face with scarlet lips surrounded by white orchids. I need you to believe beyond a doubt you’re amazing. I need to YOU TO KNOW that you are Helios material. Do what must be done. Ask for tips. Look for ways to resolve the problems rather than complain about issues that have yet and may not ever manifest themselves. 

Worried about a less than narrow waist then get  a girdle and practice poses until it’s a non-issue. Worried about your hair color then seek a person willing to touch up your hair in line with the look(s). Not sure your hair is thick enough then look for extensions and request to have them added or ask if you should have them put in. 


Otherwise, take some time and get your head in order and build some confidence. It’s okay to put this off right now; tomorrow not so much - the next day less so and so on. 

Wednesday, April 12, 2017

Full-Figured Models?

Awhile back I was asked on a meet-up, what my policy was on full-figured models. I’m sure I did the dumb Ben Carson slow-blink a couple of times as if I forgot how to speak or what planet I was on. I felt better about it later because I soon realized that no one is as dumb as Ben Carson except for maybe his parents for spawning that vile imbecile. But it did take me a moment to understand the question as I’d never been asked that before. So what is our policy on full-figured models?

The policy is that we don’t have a policy on full-figured models. I replied to the model, “I wasn’t aware that we needed one.” She went on to explain that the Helios portfolio and specifically the published models tend to lean strongly toward very lean, very fit, very athletic physique-types. Well I can assure everyone that that is not by design. It is more than likely by chance. You see, we just find whoever is qualified for a look or style of photography we’re shooting at that time. I never pay any mind to who the scout is sending me but more on that model’s ability to do the look; her commitment, her enthusiasm, her personality and her talent. We’ve never cared what her dress size is unless we anticipate getting clothing for her or having something made. I seldom even ask height unless it’s necessary for how I’m composing the image later. We generally get everything we need to get from her model portfolio specifications (everyone calling themselves a model should have one) and/or our face to face interview/casting. 

On the other hand, if this is a full-fledged Helios magazine submission event and it’s a all-hands-on-deck affair, we’re gonna want to know everything; every detail. But that’s not in any attempt to type-cast or shut someone out. It’s more of an attempt to insure that what we do get and what we decide to shoot is well suited for the model’s body type. 

What we will not do is to make some special accommodations to overcome how a model feel’s about his or her own body. That’s personal. Those are his or her own insecurities that must be faced. Our changing what I want to do to make you feel better about yourself isn't our responsibility. That’s another personal responsibility. If you’re simply unqualified for what we have planned and those qualifications are never based on your body but more on your ability and your creative malleability then that’s just tough luck. Now if a client commissions us to shoot a model for a size 2 gown then we will go find a size 2 model. But that also applies to any other size model. We have no strong disposition toward anyone. Now if you’re a freckled-faced Ewok and you’re trying to get me to shoot beauty shots for free so you can submit images to Neutrogena to get a modeling gig then we’re gonna have a problem. Someone may find that beautiful but it’s not likely to get you far. Some things can’t be changed. You simply need to go to someone that caters to the Ewokian (is that a word?) sense of beauty. 

Even as I write this my stomach churns as it sounds more like an attempt by me to defend what we shoot and how we shoot. That is not the goal here. The goal is simply to say if you’re qualified, if you’re paying, if you’re available, if you’re talented and/or suitable to what is being sought then we’re game. There is no policy on body-type being for or against anyone (my stomach turns yet again). Yet, what we have noticed is that those so-called “lean, athletic and stereotypically runway body-types gravitate to us.” That’s not exactly our fault and I make no apologies for that. The truth is, never in the entire history of Helios did we ever get many full-figured model shoot requests paid nor unpaid. Could that simply be because they themselves feel inhibited, shy or maybe fearful of judgement? I don’t know. That’s not for me to say. I can’t know how someone feels about themselves. I’d always hoped for a more diverse port when I first started out but I have what I have and we’re very pleased with it. 

At first I was offended by the question from that model. I soon got over it because after looking back through all of my work I can see how someone might think that. Oh, “Helios only wants hot, lean girls.” Uhhh, who doesn’t? That is, if you think lean, athletic girls are hot I guess. Personally, I think anyone that is qualified to meet the criteria of the look is hot - whatever that may be. That’s just us. I do believe this particular model was projecting her experiences from other people onto Helios. I get that. She may have been turned away a few times for less than legit reasons and I can empathize with that.   

This isn’t the only question of it’s type to rear its head over the years. We’ve gotten the emails saying, “you don’t shoot enough African models.” A week later we’ll get, “you don’t shoot enough Caucasian models.” Or, “where are the Asian models?” “Why don’t you shoot more red-heads?” They never stop to think that maybe Asian models never came to a casting or a meet-up. Maybe African models aren’t interested or maybe Caucasian models aren't that plentiful. We don’t know. Maybe because we were shooting swimwear at the time and redheads don’t generally do a lot of swimwear due to skin sensitivity maybe? Ever think of that? Just guessing here. Or maybe there were no French models that wanted to shoot glamour at that time. We can’t chase every theory and we will never try to. This is a matter of you can’t please everyone all the time. 

The next time you think that Helios doesn’t shoot Ghanian models, male models, Iranian models, Spaniard models or French models, full-figured models, older models, short models, blondes, natural hair, Canadian models, etc; go back thru our pics. If you don’t find enough of the models you think should be there, then step up or shut up. It’s that simple. 

Monday, April 10, 2017

Why Aren't You More Well-Known?

“Why are you not more well-known? Your work is extraordinary. You have impeccable taste and quality as well as a profoundly strong sense of style.” While I genuinely appreciate the compliments, it’s not how I really regard what we do or how we do it. In short, I’m just not that vain. My wife may humorously disagree with the latter :)

Now it doesn’t mean I do not know my value. I know what we bring to the creative table. I know what such a thing as a photoshoot of the quality and level that we bring cost. It’s not exactly cheap but it’s far from inexpensive. It’s an incredible value for the product that comes from it. We don’t cheap work, we do incredible, timeless work. 

But more to the point of being “well-known.” The truth is I have a lot going on. I’m a marketing professional, a graphic designer and a photographer. It’s no one thing. Consequently, I have many projects going on that doesn’t always allow me to focus solely on fashion or glamour photography. I wish I could do that and only that. But a guy like me in a place like this… well… I have to wear more than one hat. The bottom line is that I’m busy. So when I do decide I’m gonna do a photography project I take it very very serious. I don’t want to waste time and more importantly I want to do it well. 

Additionally, I have a profound belief that after a certain point in one’s career, your reputation has to carry you. I know I’ve been negligent in parading myself around and doing what I consider “prostituting” myself in front of socialites, nightclubs and events passing out my business card. I know that’s where the people are. But in many ways that approach seems so disingenuous. It’s very much not like me. When can the quality of the work speak for itself? I continue to feel that if you want Helios then you want HELIOS and there will be no substitutions. The calls or messages we tend to get are often someone that has been referred or they've followed quietly for a time and finally decided to make that first contact. That means they KNOW what they want and they studied us. They looked for quality, style, consistency, professionalism and taste. 

I’m not vain nor naive. I know I have to get out there more. People are constantly on us like, “why don’t you move into the city?” Why don’t you come to Seattle more? or your name should be more prominent around here. Let me introduce you to a few people.” I need to be more active promoting and marketing. I know this because I have a million formal degrees in marketing and decades of experience. I get it. But I’m so dang busy doing so many things for other people. But if someone (a model in this case) is willing to wait for us and meet-up to consider the prospect of something then maybe just maybe there is a chance something may come of it. 

Photography and even design in this region are both areas where there is gross over-supply. There are alternatives. I encourage people to look around and if Bill’s Glamour Shop or Debbie Glam-Cam Photo gives you what you want then go for it. Isn’t that the beautiful thing about this photography market? Don’t like this guy then go with that one. There is always someone else. I love this business. Over supply doesn't scare me. In fact, I embrace it because I know that when someone calls Helios, it means that they've bypassed a dozen alternatives. It means they've done some research. It means they KNOW exactly what they want and what they're getting. I’m not trying to make myself hard to find. But I do believe there is some merit in not overly saturating myself with a plethora of false starts and wannabes. 

Chances are I don’t want that crowd. They don’t want HELIOS; not really. They want a fast track, short cut and some quick pictures for Instagram and a way to get more friends of “likes” on Facebook. They can’t or wont appreciate the attention to detail, the style nor the subtle nuances that make you look and go “WOW!” We’re not a production shop where everyone looks the same and there is no genuine adaptation to your specific taste. We don’t do clone photos or design that you can and will get everywhere else. I like to know who I’m working with. I want to know if people see and understand my value. If they don't then that’s fine. But there is a chance I’m just not their guy. Therefore, when I’m interviewing someone at a meet-up, we both have an obligation to determine if we’re a good fit for one another. Sure, I’m interviewing you but you’re also interviewing me. We’re not obligated to do anything. It’s also okay to say “NO, this isn’t what I expected.”

Hmmpph? “Not well-known you say.” Well not as well known as some think I should be at least. You may not see me at all the events smiling and shaking hands with people I don’t know. But if I’m genuinely interested in a cause or an event I’m going to be there giving my full self to it. Otherwise, what is one more photographer begging for attention in this over-crowded field? What’s one more “Jim’s Pin-Up” snapping photos from the edge of the runway anyway? What is that worth to you? Would it make a difference to you to see me there or would you much rather see what I can do for you specifically? What of you coming to meet to have a frank and open discussion about your wants, needs, wishes, style, taste and preferences? Isn’t that worth more to you? Furthermore, if a few miles drive is too far then you don’t want Helios type of quality or attention. You want anyone with a camera. But I’ll drive a hundred miles or more for something that’s important to me. I’ll go from one end of Washington to the other if I know that single pair of Prada men’s shoes I’ve been wanting will be there in my size and the clerk is holding it for me. I’ll drive that far if a photographer that is willing to talk to me face to face and find out what interests me and take the time to listen to my concerns before we shoot will do so just to insure my expectations and theirs are met.

You may or may not see the company name on a huge Billboard. I haven't decided that yet. But to be frank, I like the idea of my name being mentioned in whispers and shared among only the best of the best models and agencies. “You can’t have his number unless you want the best of the best results from the best photographer.” “He or his stylist will want to meet you for an interview first if you want a collaborative project. If you can’t do that then don’t bother.” That appeals to my sense of “weeding the herd” thinking. Its a another way to cut out the riff-raff. Now if you’re one of those that feel that I’m not THAT good then guess what? You have so many other options and need not bother. Isn’t photography and modeling a beautiful thing? There are so many options. Yet, none of them are created equal. 


I didn’t plan it but in many ways this one to one even rarer collaboration thing has now evolved into a kind of private club I think; at least my collaborative projects have. They’re like invitation only or referral only membership. This isn't the proverbial “Fight Club” type of privacy. I’m not hiding. In fact, it’s just the opposite. We’ll work with anyone that prefers quality over quantity, and anyone that doesn’t mind my relaxed and yet obsessive thoughts and opinions about style. As some of you know there is that almost debilitating thing I have about being on time and the fact that forearm hair weirds me out. Just because I feel a french manicure is better than anything and nude pumps should actually be a nude color that matches your specific skin-tone and the fact you didn’t bother to know that is tantamount to killing puppies.

Maybe this clears up some questions about the "well-known" aspect and probably raises a few others. You can always ask us right here. Thank you all for continuing to follow and share your thoughts and showing a genuine interests in photography, design and art in general. 

Monday, January 2, 2017

Thank You Chase

There is Chase and then there is no one. From the first time we photographed her years ago until this very day, she is the most consistently perfectly performing model ever. She was then just as she is now... unquestionably perfect.

A few weeks ago we crossed text paths and shared a Happy Holidays and Season Greetings sort or message thing. It had been awhile - too long in my opinion. It's always a good idea just to stay updated with the best of the best models if for nothing else than just a chit chat to see what's going on with them. To our delight, she was interested in a photo shoot. We all agreed that it should be something smaller this time around. Something that didn't require a full crew and only called for minimal gear. It had been awhile after all and we knew Chase was a fan of natural looks. Now when a model tells me she wants natural that normally makes me cringe. Once upon a time my mind would have interpreted that as no makeup, no hair styling, no clothing stylist and bad bad bad clothing options. My every instinct would have screamed no freakin' way. It was only after working with her once years ago I realized that when you have the right talent, everything will be fine. In fact, with Chase it's stellar.
All Rights Reserved
Model: Chase "Whitehill" Rubeor
You see, she's not just stunning but she is also the most gifted and professional person I've ever had the pleasure of working with on a photo shoot. Not to say that no one else is great. Chase is simply... I don't know. I don't want to say "flawless." That seems so final and committed and such words have a way of biting you in the ass later. You just know what you're going to get every single time and it's never ever wrong. She is never late. She never complains. Everything fits perfect and looks amazing on her whether we buy it or she brings it. There is never a mix up on who is doing what or bringing what or going where. She is not demanding or pompous. She is not overly emotional. She is drama-free. She doesn't bring her personal problems to work if you know what I mean. Yet, she's personal and has a cozy personality like a blanket (okay that's weird but you get it). A girl next door kinda personality vibe (that's better) but she just happens to look like and model like an international supermodel (she already kinda has been). She's not gonna break down in tears at the slightest thing (you'd be surprised what we've seen over the years). She has an unmistakable sense of personal style that is both refined casual and classically sophisticated and oh boy she wears it well.


It's really difficult to describe how well arranging a shoot goes with her. We don't need to exchange 30 emails or 50 texts because we've come to trust her unconditionally. I send her one single image of an idea for inspiration and she replies, "I know exactly the mood you're going for. I got it." That's music to my ears. "The Mood." She understands. She gets how this whole thing works. She understands modeling, call sheets, go-sees and test shoots. She gets mood boards and story boards. She's a professional. If I hire an MUA we don't get nervous that she will be late or not show up. If I have a hair stylist, we're not concerned that she's gonna complain about the hair styling or  how the clothing looks. There is a mutual trust and respect for one another's gifts and contribution. She does what she does best. We do what we do best and it's always beyond expectations even when we don't seem to ever take enough images of her or see her as often as we would like. Then again, there could never be enough images of her.

I suppose there is one hiccup if any. Availability. We would like to give her solid week of shooting. At least three back to back to back days. Unfortunately, we all have busy schedules and lives to go about. But good things (good people) are worth waiting for. Ten years can go by and Chase will still be Magnificent Chase whether she is wearing Givenchy or Gap,  Burberry or Balenciaga. She could be full body air brushed or have no makeup on at all and it's still Chase. If she's not feeling well but committed to doing the project anyway, it will still be the magnificent, high performing, beautiful, professional, endlessly talented and intelligent Chase.  

Thank you Chase. Thank you for making 2016 end on a high note and 2017 begin with a sense of discovery and possibilities. 

Tuesday, December 27, 2016

Burn Bridges or Get Agency Representation

In an uncharacteristic move, I took it upon myself to reach out to someone I thought would make a great model for a series we were creating. The goal was to publish, widely market the images and even potentially submit to other publications providing the model made the proverbial cut. Well she very very nicely said she was just too busy on "paid assignments" and not interested. Okay so which is it? Are you too busy or are you just not interested? Well she didn't just burn the bridge, she burned it and buried the ashes in the desert somewhere unknown. Here's why her reply isn't as honest as it appears.

The reply she gave is plenty simple and nice enough. Some might even say it was professional. I think it may have gone better but what did she possibly do or say wrong? What else does this guy want you might ask? She has to make money for her modeling services right? Sure she does. She made the horrible assumption many models make. First she assumed I wouldn't pay. A true professional would ask about the specifics. Where is it? When is it? What is the compensation? What is the theme? I had given an ample amount of information to make an informed decision or to inquire further. But she didn't take it. She blew me off right away and gave that dumb lazy answer of "paid assignments" and "not interested." No worries I thought. That's how it goes. I'm retired so what do I care right?

But as always I genuinely thanked her for taking the time to reply and told her I may consider for something in the future when I need a fashion editorial model that I can publish with all the makeup and hair styling provided for along with designer clothing and accessories. Additionally, that it may lead to a cover that may have made her eligible for a temp web page, free magazine copies and downloads with an extensive social media campaign featuring her as a result. Oh but wait she replied again. She might be available or able to rearrange her schedule for that. Seriously???!!!! I couldn't stop laughing. What happened to "not interested?" What happened to "I'm just so busy making stacks of money? (no-one believes that by the way). No thanks I'm thinking. You burned that bridge to the earth and where there was once water underneath it is now a bottomless canyon. There is no mending that fence.

All is well that ends well. This isn't about me because fortunately I'm not that sensitive. This is about exercising a reasonable amount of etiquette when dealing with potential opportunities. Many people, including myself, often jump to conclusions and make assumptions based on past experiences or hubris. Most often it's just pure pride and ego that has us making bad decisions. It took me awhile to take out the emotion when dealing with certain business dealings and just focus on what is in my long term best interests professionally.

This isn't about the aforementioned model either; at least not entirely. People have the freedom and right to make their own decisions about what they will and will not do. Just like I will not ever offer her any new opportunities ever again. Nor will I ever recommend her for anything no matter who asks. That's my right as it is hers to never come back.

This isn't personal. I'm an humble guy. I'm not feeling myself enough to believe there aren't multiple alternatives to what I do. Yet, I also know my worth, my vision, my skill and technical prowess to execute an idea. I wish her and everyone else the absolute best even with that jacked up sh*t attitude. It's really not her fault. The industry made her believe that having slightly above-average looks was all it takes. She was told she was cute one too many times before it stuck and now she believes the sky is the limit. "Oooh, I beautiful. I can be a model she thought." Yet, she never had the direction she needed. She's simply one example of a much larger issue. Why are there so many non-professionals involved in this industry? What she needs is agency representation.

I know you can't believe it. I said it. This is one of many reasons why agencies exist in the first place I thought. Yeah, there I typed it. I know I know. He actually thinks agencies are a good idea? Well don't get carried away just yet. I think they are great for people who simply don't have the acumen to handle their own affairs among other reasons. This is definitely one of those cases as are many. It is precisely why most of these delusions of making it big go absolutely nowhere. The talent is there. The mindset, the professional attitude and business acumen are NOT.